My pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela (3) : Rouergue, a time travel to the Middle-Age

@topffer (42156)
France
January 24, 2021 11:39am CST
It was raining when I arrived at Saint-Chély d'Aubrac, and I decided to go to a hostel for pilgrims. I was surprised to find in my room a local beer and some peanuts, as the people from Aubrac have the reputation to be cheap. Worst rats in France. At least it is their reputation. The beer was good. The following day the sun was back and I ended to cross the natural park of Aubrac. In St-Côme-d'Ost, a big surprise was waiting for me. This village was looking like a medieval town, unchanged since the 13th or 14th C. Nobody had ever told me that something like this was existing. I quite fainted like a Japanese discovering Paris. I was entering the old province of Rouergue. While not a crow would try to enter Aubrac without a full basket of food, you smell the pungent odor of gold coins hidden behind the walls in Rouergue. Rouergue is incredible, it is a succession of medieval buildings like you would not dream to see. Medieval bridges, medieval houses, medieval palaces, all built long before Colombus discovered America. The reason of this richness is the Lot river which was already a water-way before the Roman empire. After Saint-Côme, the pilgrims'route goes to Espalion, which has a magnificent bridge rebuilt during the 13th C crossing the Lot river, and then goes North to Conques-en-Rouergue, where I visited the Sainte-Foy abbey and its cloister, from the 11th C. Photos : an "Aubrac" beer offered in Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac ; the pilgrims' path in the woods of the natural park of Aubrac Medieval buildings in St-Côme-d'Ost Bridge of the 13th C in Espalion ; Estaing and its castle at the top Medieval buildings in Estaing Castle and cloister in Conques-en-Rouergue
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8 responses
@JudyEv (342277)
• Rockingham, Australia
25 Jan 21
What amazing memories you must have of these ancient towns.
4 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
25 Jan 21
I had never visited this part of Rouergue. While medieval churches are common in France, civil architecture from the middle-age is rare, and I had never seen so many. It is a hidden treasure.
3 people like this
@Aquitaine24 (11813)
• San Jose, California
24 Jan 21
Medieval buildings are very picturesque. When did you go?
3 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
24 Jan 21
I did this walk before the covid disaster, in 2014.
3 people like this
@Aquitaine24 (11813)
• San Jose, California
25 Jan 21
@topffer It must be a great memory.
2 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
25 Jan 21
@Aquitaine24 It is. What disturbs me the most since last March is to not be able to travel because of the covid. 2020 was a rotten year, and 2021 does not seem to want to be better
1 person likes this
@much2say (56142)
• Los Angeles, California
26 Jan 21
" . . . fainted like a Japanese discovering Paris" . I was surprised that you were surprised as you seem to know so much about the history of places and everything there. I'm sure the village was full of wonderful architecture and one could take days investigating it all . . . could you actually go inside these places?
2 people like this
@much2say (56142)
• Los Angeles, California
30 Jan 21
@topffer A delightful shock is much better than disappointment. It's like my cousin from Japan who visited and we took him to Hollywood . . . it was not at all glitzy and glamorous as he was expecting - to him it turned out to be a dump. That's great you could still have these amazing historical discoveries in your own country. You could probably "feel" the history as you walk through!
2 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
31 Jan 21
@much2say Many Japanese see Paris as a dump too. We all have many things to discover in our own countries. Perhaps the change of scenery is not so obvious than when we visit a foreign country, but the shock may be bigger.
2 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
26 Jan 21
It is "Pari shokogun", Paris syndrome : basically you see something different that what you were expecting to see, but the Japanese tourist is deceived while I was delighted. You think you know your country and no, at the corner of the road there is something that you had never seen... These houses are private houses, they cannot be visited, the churches and a few castles can. This part of Rouergue is really something to not miss if you visit France.
2 people like this
@kaylachan (71918)
• Daytona Beach, Florida
24 Jan 21
Sounds like quite the interesting place.
2 people like this
@kaylachan (71918)
• Daytona Beach, Florida
24 Jan 21
@topffer Isn't that how it should be?
4 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
25 Jan 21
@kaylachan Absolutely, you are right.
3 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
24 Jan 21
It was more interesting than the beginning of the journey.
4 people like this
@jobelbojel (36042)
• Philippines
24 Jan 21
This is an interesting place. Thank you for sharing your journey. I like old structures, that bridge going to Espalion is well built.
3 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
25 Jan 21
Lot is a river flooding often. The first stone bridge was built during the 11th C and destroyed by a flood. The 13th C bridge looks and is a very strong bridge.
2 people like this
@LindaOHio (181931)
• United States
25 Jan 21
This is a trip right up my alley! I am fascinated with the Medieval period. Love the pictures.
2 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
25 Jan 21
Then it is a place for you. I have never seen so many buildings from the middle-age than in this part of Rouergue, it is fascinating, you feel to be several centuries back.
1 person likes this
@LindaOHio (181931)
• United States
25 Jan 21
@topffer I would love to visit a place like that.
2 people like this
@prinzcy (32305)
• Malaysia
25 Jan 21
I love how the medieval buildings are so well preserved.
2 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
26 Jan 21
Yes, it is very weird, the life seems to have stopped during the middle-age in this part of Rouergue.
2 people like this
@Fleura (30541)
• United Kingdom
2 Mar 21
I only just realised that I didn't finish reading about your travels - I got sidetracked by the beast of Gévaudan! What interesting places to visit. I must explore more of France one day!