My pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela (4) : Sinning in Quercy
By topffer
@topffer (42156)
France
January 25, 2021 5:57am CST
Leaving Rouergue the route enters in Lot which was the historical province of Quercy. Although Quercy has also medieval houses, the life has not stopped during the middle-age like in Rouergue. There are new buildings here and there, and even a "new" (created in the 1820's) city, Decazeville (no photo, it is depressing).
Figeac has an interesting urban architecture, although it is a small town (less than 10000) famous for his foie-gras. A high place of French resistance, Figeac paid a heavy price during WW2, about 10% of its population was deported to Dachau and Ravensbrück in 1944. The covered market is in pure Baltard style, which is becoming rare, and surrounded by houses of the 15 and 16th C, telling us that this square has seen many covered markets in the past.
Then I discovered Cajarc. I knew this name only from a funny sketch by Coluche in the 1970's, but I did not knew that President Pompidou, who was not my preferred one, had been elected in Cajarc, that Françoise Sagan, who was a writer that I always disliked was born in Cajarc, and that Coluche himself had a house near Cajarc (1100 inhabitants). I learned that on a sign and asked myself how I could have not heard of Cajarc before ! It was a market day in Cajarc, and I did my shopping for the lunch. I was intrigued by a woman selling a street food that I had never seen, and was told that it was a specialty of Quercy called "pescajoune". In Occitan, the native language of my mother, this means "a sin for times of fasting", and, looking at the woman and her daughter I noticed that they were big sinners. A well-fed cook inspires trust, I bought three pescajounes. It is a kind of pancake whith pieces of apples inside, but the dough is lighter than in pancakes. I also bought half of a bread and a local sheep cheese. I lunched on an "affût" for hunters (I don't know if there is an English name, it is a raised floor used to hunt wild boars). I was only lacking a bottle of local red wine to do a good lunch.
Arrived in Cahors, the capital city of Lot, I committed another sin for a pilgrim : instead of going to the camping, I went to a hostel near the Lot river and asked for a room with a large bed having a bathroom with a true bath where I stayed 2 hours. It was so good ! Oh, well, a bit of comfort on the road to Santiago is not a big sin.
The devil has a bridge in Cahors, a fortified bridge from the 14th C with three towers on it. It is splendid.
Photos, from top to bottom :
Figeac : the Lot river ; the square of the covered market
Cajarc : the seller of pescajounes ; my lunch with pescajounes and sheep cheese
Cahors : global view ; the Devil's bridge
My hostel and room in Cahors
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11 responses
@LindaOHio (181931)
• United States
25 Jan 21
Thank you for the fascinating "tour" and for the great pictures. The pescajounes sound good. At first I though it was something with fish from the name.
3 people like this
@much2say (56142)
• Los Angeles, California
26 Jan 21
@LindaOHio I had thought the same about it being fish!
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@much2say (56142)
• Los Angeles, California
26 Jan 21
Ah, yes this looks much more modern than Rouergue. Big sinners . I was wondering how you dealt with evenings/sleep and such. I know hotels - haven't tried a hostel - but I'll bet the bed and bath would feel quite luxurious when without for some time. I love old bridges and would insist on walking from end to end if I could, in passing all of them on such a journey. I am really liking your photos!!!!
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@much2say (56142)
• Los Angeles, California
30 Jan 21
@topffer I know young folks tend to use hostels - quite inexpensive! Camping would be amazing and would probably be my preference over a hostel (I wouldn't like to be around too many other people for sleeping and showering). A hotel would and did have everything you need, but that is what you pay for. I assume you took a nice, long bath .
I see that the Champollion museum is of the history of writing ! Ohhh, that would be a neat visit. What did you think of it?
I would go through all those bridges and towers! A devil drawing - I would certainly not leave until I found it .
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@much2say (56142)
• Los Angeles, California
3 Feb 21
@topffer Ah, got it. Sounds like my cousin who bought a gigantic house, but couldn't afford to furnish it . With museums like that, they have to stretch the exhibits somehow . . . add a lot of fluff . . . in which you cannot fool all who go to see.
Oh definitely . . . I'd want to see the drawing of that devil or else I will not get off that bridge .
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@topffer (42156)
• France
26 Jan 21
Hostel/Ostal in Spain, is the name given to hotels for pilgrims. They are places where you have a bed in a collective bedroom and a shower for 15 to 25 Euros. Very cheap, but I was preferring to do camping, I don't like collective bedrooms, they remind me my military service. The one on the photos is indeed a hotel, although the name "La Chartreuse" (A Chartreuse is the name given to an abbey of Chartreux monks) plays also on the pilgrims side. I paid about 70 euros for the room in 2014. I was dreaming of a bath since 3 days.
Yes, Quercy is more civilized than Rouergue. In Figeac I visited the Champollion museum : Champollion, the first man who read Egyptian writing was from Figeac. The Rosetta stone should be there.
The Cahors bridge is a pedestrian bridge today (I remember to have crossed it with my car long ago), and if you pay for the visit you will be able to go inside the towers ; there is a drawing of the devil on one tower that you will have to locate (it is part of the visit).
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@msdivkar (23359)
• India
26 Jan 21
@topffer Yes i can imagine. You surely are. I don't have any photos with me. I had a very good camera purchased way back in 1979. Cannon AE1. But that camera developed problem and could not be repaired. Even the photos I took on my European trip at that time did not last as they were processed photos. In digital world of today photos are life long.
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@LadyDuck (472087)
• Switzerland
25 Jan 21
I confess I also did not know about Pompidou and Françoise Sagan, I also have never been a fan of both of them. I agree that the pescajoune vendor and her daughter have been sinner. I think that the pescajoune is a thick crêpes with inside the fruits that are available. I would translate affût as "bait". I am sure that should I decide to do this pilgrimage I would go to a hotel to sleep. Interesting photos.
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@topffer (42156)
• France
25 Jan 21
Thanks you for bait. The pescajoune is as thick than a pancake, but the dough is more a crepe dough. It is a long walk and there are not hôtels everywhere, only hôtels for pilgrims which are more "auberges de jeunesse" with dormitories than hôtels. It is like the pescajoune, you don't really know what it is
The comic in the sign about Cajarc celebs is that they are proud that Coluche made fun of "Papy Mougeot de Cajarc"
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@crazyhorseladycx (39509)
• United States
25 Jan 21
most fascinatin' history 'n so diff'rent from yer previous writin' 'f the tour. jest fascinatin' schtuff! ya didn't, perchance, snag a recipe fer those pescajounes? don't blame ya fer the room with a tub, 'm quite sure a nice soak 'twas truly needed by this time.
the bridge 'tis spectacular! 'twas 't where ya go climb 'nto those towers?
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@topffer (42156)
• France
26 Jan 21
Thank you very much. I give you the recipe for pescajounes found in the link. It is easy. The more difficult will probably be to find a plum spirit in USA, but you can replace it by any fruit spirit.
-4 reinettes apples (the reinette is a small sour apple)
-half a liter of full milk
-4 eggs
-125 grams of buckwheat flour
-125 gr of wheat flour
-20 gr (3 spoons) of sugar
- 1 spoon of oil
-2 tea spoons of salt
-50 ml (a small glass/shot) of plum spirit.
Mix the flours in a bowl and make a dwell in the center where you put eggs, salt and sugar. Mix and forget it an hour. Add the plum spirit.
Cut the apples in small pieces and cook them in a pan with a bit of butter
Add a laddle of the dough in the pan and cook on both sides
Flame with plum spirit, sprinkle with sugar and do it again until you have no more dough.
If you pay for the visit, you can enter in the towers on the bridge and try to locate a drawing of the devil hidden in one of them
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@topffer (42156)
• France
27 Jan 21
@crazyhorseladycx Lol the bacon would be no cricket like they say in England. When fasting people do not eat any meat, it would be cheating
Searching the drawing interests more children than adults, I saw it quickly but I shut up
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@crazyhorseladycx (39509)
• United States
27 Jan 21
@topffer yer welcome 'n thanks much fer the recipe. will need to figure what gluten free flours 'd make a suitable substitute, but looks very doable. heck, might e'en try such with bacon, lol.
do ya get a prize if'n ya find said drawin'? i bet 'tis a most fascinatin' 'xperience, lookin' o'er the lands from such a vantage point.
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@JudyEv (342277)
• Rockingham, Australia
26 Jan 21
@topffer We did go to Fourgeres and chanced upon a medieval-type fair there. A mock battle was staged in the grounds of the castle. It was the most magical day - totally unexpected. I have 100s of photos of the place and the people. Almost everyone was in costume.
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@lovinangelsinstead21 (36850)
• Pamplona, Spain
1 Feb 21
Love the photos and wishing you the best day from this day to the very next day and date of next year.
All the best stay safe and well tops.
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@topffer (42156)
• France
1 Feb 21
It is very nice to you. I really hate this virus, and I started this series to change my mind. In 2014 I stopped this pilgrimage in Roncevalles, maybe I will end it when we will have no more virus. The next stop on the road to Santiago is Pamplona and I will not miss to visit you. All my wishes of good health to you and your family
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@moffittjc (121736)
• Gainesville, Florida
14 Feb 21
Beautiful photos, looks like you are having a wonderful time! I dream of someday backpacking throughout Europe, and maybe one day I can leave behind all my obligations here in the US and hop on a plane and take off for Europe. It is a nice dream to have.
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@topffer (42156)
• France
15 Feb 21
It was in 2014. I want to start a discussion about tourism during Covid (yes, I tried that recently), but it is another ambiance.
If you come in France I hope we will be able to meet somewhere. Also, I don't live in a touristic city, but I plan to restore a floor in my house for friends, you will be welcomed
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@moffittjc (121736)
• Gainesville, Florida
18 Feb 21
@topffer Thank you! I hope to be back in France in the near future, maybe next year or 2023.
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